On the windward side of Oahu, in Haiku valley, there is a set of stairs reaching to the top of a mountain. Hikers have named it the stairway to heaven. It has become a thing of rumors and boasting, of stories and adventure, largely because ascending them is illegal according to state law.

The stairway has its origins with the military. Before the advent of orbital satellites, there was a need to maintain high elevation outposts for communications and surveillance. There were many such outposts on Oahu which mostly survive intact to this day. The stairway to heaven was sturdily built, but vandalism caused one of the segments to break, the fixing of which cost the state thousands of dollars. Not finding it within its budget to make sure the stairway remained in good condition, and also in response to complaints about hiking traffic in a residential area, the state closed off the stairway indefinitely. It now lies behind chain link fence and a full-time guard.

Be that as it may, I have climbed the stairway twice. One must arrive early in the morning, before the guard, and know exactly the right route to use in sneaking over the fence. After this criminalesque beginning, one faces a seemingly never-ending trudge up a pitch black nether world. Light begins to shine halfway through the sojourn, and if one is proactive and athletic, one makes it to the top of the mountain in time to admire the brilliant colors of the dawn. If one is in the company of a cunning leader, as I was, one may also benefit from cold beer and freshly roasted meat at the top of the mountain. That memory will be with me for the rest of my life.

Although the Stairway is thrilling, it requires the right preparation and knowledge, and the same beauty can also be seen in many of Oahu’s legal hikes. Particularly, I would recommend Konahuanui on a clear day. In spite of the stairway’s name, this hike actually reaches a higher elevation. The history and lore is also deeper, but I’ll leave that for you to explore.